Introduction
to the leatherworking
business
Chapter I : Creation
Inspiration, an idea, a sketch scribbled on a notebook page...
Then the idea takes shape, giving birth to the very first mockup, resulting from the pattern-making work.
It’s at this step that the question of the clean or turned edges arises, depending on the desired aesthetic.
Then come the choice of colors, leathers, threads… These options are all opportunities for the designer to express his love for the nobility and the quality of the materials used.
Making an article of leather goods is an approach that is both artistic and thoughful, passionate and rational.
The designer, while letting his creativity speak for itself, must strive to imagine a singular piece, which corresponds to its owner, his style, his lifestyle.
Creating an item that is practical, beautiful, original and of unquestionable quality requires the know-how that has made the reputation of French luxury craftmanship.
The creations of Milan Noir are part of this demand for quality, this passion for the gestures of an ancestral craft that we wanted to share with you…
Chapter II : Preparation
Unthickening the leather, between splitting and skiving
Splitting :
During the splitting process, which is carried out with the help of a splitted machine, the leather is unthickened as a whole.
This step allows the leather’s density to be reduced according to the products used in manufacture.
It is possible to use a manual or electronic splitter, depending on the desired result. With a manual technique, the result will be less precise and the leather more irregular, but it can be the most beautiful effect for certain creations.
Skiving :
Skiving is used to thicken and refine the edges of straight or slanted cuts to facilitate stitching.
It can be done manually or electronically.
In the first case, the skiving knife will allow us to refine delicate pieces, or to reach places that are difficult to access.
The skiving machine, on the other hand, is both fast and precise and offers efficiency and manoeuvrability.
Chapter III : Signature Make its piece unique and sign it with marking
Extremely aesthetic, especially when applied to a piece of leather, marking is the sign of high-end leather goods and luxury craftsmanship.
With or without color transfer, marking is most often done with a hot mark pressed onto the object for a few seconds.
Chapter IV : Assembly
The ancestral know-how of assembly
The assembly consists of assembling different pieces of leather and uses several leatherwork tools: the quilting machine, the awl or the needle…
To obtain a clean edge, two pieces are sewn edge to edge before being covered with dye, beeswax, or gum Arabic: this is the polishing stage, which makes it possible to make the piece clean and impeccable.
To obtain turned edges, the leather craftsman will first thicken the leather so that it can be folded over itself or over another piece.
Chapter V : Pampering
Pampering its work….
Once the assembly is finished, the bag, the pouch or the leather piece will be pampered, a step during which the leather craftsman will check the quality of his work.
This stage consists of shaping the product, bringing out the angles, all of which are precise acts aimed at refining the aesthetics of the object created so that it will be perfect when it assists its future companion.
We hope that you have enjoyed this travel to the heart of our craft and we look forward to seeing you soon for more secrets of the leather craftsman.
In the meantime, don't hesitate to go and see our creations.